Enveloped in darkness, I sucked on my asthma inhaler — out of breath from anxiety and exercise-induced bronchospasm.

I was less than 100 yards into the nearly 1.7-mile Taft Tunnel, the first portion of the Route of the Hiawatha. Referred to as the “crown jewel” of rail-to-trail mountain biking adventures, it’s situated along the old Milwaukee Railroad bed in the Bitterroot Mountains of Idaho and Montana.

About 20 feet ahead, I could see the flashing red taillight affixed to my husband’s pack. John, an experienced mountain biker, wanted this to be a fun outing we could share together.

As people rode toward me I had two thoughts — their lights are blinding me and I must get a brighter light. However, there wasn’t a bike shop inside the tunnel.

Pedaling on, my eyes either adjusted to the darkness or my ego wouldn’t let the 75-year-old woman who passed by show me up. As I continued, I was finally able to see the light at the end of the tunnel — literally.

The next 13 miles were mostly downhill — physically but not metaphorically. My perseverance was treated to an exhilarating cruise with spectacular scenery, including riding across seven high trestles and through nine shorter train tunnels.

Equipped with a much brighter light, I’ve been back to the Hiawatha nearly a dozen times. It’s always a beautiful ride.

Lookout Pass, just off Interstate 90 straddling the Idaho-Montana border, serves as the base of operations for the trail. For travelers that don’t want to haul their own bikes, rentals are available — which come with helmets and lights. Also, visitors can purchase trail passes, shuttle tickets, water bottles, picnic supplies and souvenirs.

During a trip to the trail, Wallace, Idaho, serves as a great home base. Nestled in a narrow valley along the South Fork of the Coeur d’Alene River, it features a variety of outdoor activities — and the entire downtown district is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

While silver mining put Wallace on the map, it has become a tourist destination. In addition to mine tours, hiking trails, ziplines and a bike park, it is home to several museums, including a former bordello that provides a glimpse into the town’s seedier past.

Also, the Sixth Street Melodrama & Theater stages summer and holiday season performances. Weekend festivals in the Silver Valley feature everything from huckleberries and craft brews to car shows and blues music — and a three-day flea market each Labor Day weekend.

And under the freeway’s viaduct is part of the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes. It offers more than 72 miles of paved pathways for non-motorized use.

And about the Hiawatha, after completing the downhill grade, a shuttle is available to take riders and their bikes back to the parking area. It’s open from late-May through mid-September. For more information, search www.ridethehiawatha.com.