LA GRANDE — They say that when you want something with a pure heart, it often comes to you.

I have been tapped to be the restaurant reviewer for Union County for Go! Eastern Oregon and it is an assignment that I have been preparing for my entire 20 years in La Grande. I love eating, I love having food placed in front of me that I don’t have to fix, and I especially love not having to clean up afterward.

My first assignment, Nells-N-Out, is in my neighborhood and has always been the place to go when I am craving a hot fudge sundae or a protein and carb combo.

Since the menu is so extensive, I took along my sister, who is my “designated eater,” so we could take a more global approach to the many food and drink offerings.

And they are extensive — burgers, chicken, hot dogs, salads, fish, munchies, ice cream in its many incarnations, and the famous cream and mixed soda drinks.

Nells-N-Out has been a beloved fixture in La Grande for generations. Located at 1704 Adams Ave., this local institution has been a touchstone since 1955.

Known for its friendly service and classic American comfort food offerings, Nells-N-Out has a reputation for burgers, curly fries and an extensive drink menu, ranging from real malts to the mind-boggling combinations of soda, flavorings, and now energy drinks — all with catchy names.

Since we wanted the complete Nells-N-Out experience, we hopped in my car, drove around the block, and joined the line of cars that always seems to be queued up at their two drive-thru windows. We had perused the menu beforehand and were mostly decided on our choices. The speakers seemed to be working well and the order-taking went smoothly after a bit of a hiccup with my order of a chocolate malt with chocolate ice cream.

My sister settled on the ultimate Nells experience — a Nells burger (a cheeseburger with all of the fixings), an order of curly fries, and a Polar Bear, one of their imaginative drink selections — cola with half & half.

I decided to explore their choices for the more health-conscious and opted for the grilled chicken salad. Of course, I had to have the chocolate malt, because it is a rare treat and Nells has some of the best ice cream in the valley.

Arriving home, we set up our table and ate our repast out of the sturdy containers provided. The salad was fresh with crisp lettuce, a generous portion of chicken, tomatoes, black olives, and cheese (I gave my sister the pickles). My choice of honey mustard dressing was provided in a separate container and complemented the salad well.

My sister’s Nells burger was juicy, perfectly cooked, and dressed with lettuce, tomatoes, and cheese.

The curly fries were just the right temperature and just the ideal carbohydrate companion with Nells famous dipping sauce. I think it’s like thousand island dressing with a twist, which was great with the fries.

The Polar Bear has always been a favorite of hers and exceeded expectations.

After enjoying our Nells feast, clean up was washing two forks and tossing away the rest. Can’t beat that with a stick!

However, Nells-N-Out is not just about the food; it’s also about the experience.

The staff is friendly, efficient, and enthusiastic. Generations of young people have begun their work lives at Nells, learning the ropes of the service industry, setting them up for their future careers in whatever they choose to pursue.

Nells-N-Out is open daily from 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. The phone number is 541-963-5733.

The food factor

Go! is starting an occasional feature about food around Eastern Oregon. Every county has its special eateries or signature dishes — if you have suggestions about a place or food item you can’t live without, send an email to editor@goeasternoregon.com.